Machine for manufacturing congress boots



(No Model.) '3 Sheets-Sheet; 1.

O. W. SHIPPEE.

MACHINE FOR MANUFACTURING CONGRESS BOOTS. No. 390,263. Patented 001;. 2,1888.

N. PETERS. Fhuio-Lilh grlpher, Wuhingkm a. c.

3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

0. W. SHIPPEE: MACHINE FOR MANUFACTURING CONGRESS BOOTS. No. 390,263

Patented Oct. 2, 1888.

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(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet a.

O. W. SHIPPEE.

MACHINE FOR MANUFACTURING OONGRESS BOOTS. No. 390,263. Patented Oct. 2,1888.

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u. PETERS Pholn-Lltbngrapher, Washingwn. no.

UNITED STATES PATENT FFICEo MACHINE FOR MANUFACTURING CONGRESS BOOTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 390,263, dated October2, 1888.

Application filed February 20, 1888. Serial No. 264,629. (No model.)

To aZZ whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, CHARLES WILLIAM SHIP- PEE, a citizen of the UnitedStates, residing at Milford, in the county of Worcester and State ofMassachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inMechanism for Facilitating the Manufacture of Congress Boots; and "I dodeclare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description oftheinvention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which itappertains to make and use the same, reference being had to theaccompanying drawings, and to the letters and figures ofreference markedthereon, which form a part of this specification.

On the 12th day of September, 1887, I filed in the Patent Officeapplication N 0. 249,444, for a patent for improvement in mechanism forfolding the edges of the gored opening and also the top edge of thelining of a Congress boot, and in auxiliary mechanism for facilitatingthe application and fixing to said lining of the elastic gores and theportions of the top of the boot which are also to be secured to saidelastic gores.

This application is for a separate patent for that part of the mechanismofsaid application No. 249,444, which is described therein as theauxiliary mechanism, 850. Therefore the invention comprised in thisapplication consists in a mechanism for facilitating the application andfixing to the lining of a Congress boot, after the edges of the goredopening and also the top edge of said lining have been folded andpressed, of the elastic gores and the portions of the top of the bootwhich are to be secured to the said elastic gores, and also to the saidlining, all as shown and as herein after described.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a top view ofa portion of a bench or tablehaving gages and their operative mechanism applied thereto, to behereinafter described. Fig. 2 is a transverse section of said bench ortable. Fig. 3 is a front view of said table with its gages and operativemechanism. Fig. 4 is a similar view to Fig. 1, but showing some of theparts in a different position from that shown in Fig. 1, as will behereinafter described. Fig. 5 is a View of one half of a lining of aCongress boot, the edges of the gored opening and the top edge of thelining being folded, as shown.

In carrying out my invention, I secure on a long bench or table a seriesof gages arranged in sets, each set being to facilitate the applicationand fixing to a pair of linings which have the edges of the goredopening therein and their top edges folded,as shown in Fig. 5, of theelastic gores and the pieces of leather or material which are to besecured to said gores and linings. The drawings illustrate but one setof said gages.

The linings before being applied to the gages are to be arranged inpairs or rights and lofts and sewed or connected together down theirfront edges from the top to or about to the point where the vamp will besewed to the top or ankle portion of the boot.

A denotes the table, to which is secured a metallic plate, o against theunder side of which and in an opening in the table I place a heater tobe warmed by steam or otherwise, and upon the upper surface of saidplate are placed two plates, K L, provided with inclined slots Screws hpass down through said slots into the plate o and serve as guides tosaid plates in their movements. Secured to each of the plates K L aretwo gages, M N, the lower ones, M, being fixed to said platesK L, andthe upper ones, N, pivoted thereto, as shown, so that they can be turnedup into the position shown in dotted lines in Fig. 2. Each of the gagesN is provided with a book which receives a bail, k extending downthrough slots m in the table and having its ends con nected to a weight,Z, (see Figs. 2 and 3,) said weight and bail serving to hold the gage Nwhen turned up into a vertical position, and to give pressure to it whenturned down upon an elastic gore, as shown in Fig. 4.

Pivoted to the plates K L are two connecting-rods, O P, which arejointed to a lever, Q, pivoted to the table at if. The table is providedwith a slot, R, in its front edge, as shown, and has a line, S, markedthereon, said line to serve as a guide in applying a pair of linings tothe table, as seen in Figs. 1 and 4. The top of the leg portion thereofbeing laid against such line,as shown, that portion of the linings tothe right of the line 2 2. Fig. 5 is introduced into and hangs downthrough the slot R in the table and the portion to the left of the line2 2 in said figure lies upon the top of the table, the folded edges ofthe openings in said linings being made to touch the edges of the gagesM, all as shown in Fig.1 in full lines, and in dottedlines in Fig. 4.Owing to the construction and arrangement of these gages they willanswer for several sizessay from 5 to 1lthe numbers indicating the sizesbeing marked on the gages M, as shown. The drawings represent thelinings to be size 5, and before adjusting said linings on the table tothe gage said gage is to be moved by means of the leverQ, so that theline indicating size 5 will coincide with the line S on the table. Thenthe linings are to be adjusted to the gages and weights placed thereonto hold them in position. While the aforesaid adjustment is being donethe gages N are standing in a vertical position, as shown in dottedlines in Fig. 2. Cement is next to be applied to the under, and then tothe upper, surfaces of the folds a b 0 (Z 0. Then the elastic gores arelaid over and upon the folds b a (Z. Next, the gages N are turned downupon the gores and the pressure thereon, caused by the weights Z, willpress the gores into contact with the folded edges of the openings inthe linings and cause them to adhere firmly thereto. Next, the front orinstep and leg portion T of the boot top which goes between the elasticgores on the front is to be cemented on its inner surface next its sideedges and top edge and applied to the said gores, with its side edges, 3resting against the inner edges, 2, of the gages N. As shown in Fig. 4,a strap, X, is inserted between the top edge of the portion T and thatof the linings, and pressure is then applied to said cemented portionsby means of one or more weights. The back portions, U, of the boot-topare next to be applied in the same manner by cement to the gore and thetop edge of the linings, the inclined edge a of the portions U beinglaid against the inclined edge b of the gages N, as shown, pressurebeing applied to the cemented portions by weights until the cement hasset, after which the gages N are to be raised to a vertical position,the weights removed, and the linings, with the portions of the boot-topapplied thereto, removed from the table, and another set of liningssubstituted therefor.

The set of linings removed from the gages are to have the parts of theboot-top which have been cemented thereto further connected together atthe edges by one row of stitching only of a sewing-machine.

The cement employed in connecting the edges of the parts, as described,assists materially in holding them together, and it is necessary to usebut one row of stitches to complete the union, thus effecting a savingover the old method of using two rows of stitches, one row being farpreferable, particularly in connecting the sides of the gored opening tothe sides of the elastic gore, as with one row of stitches there is muchless liability of cutting off the elastic strands of the fabric of whichthe gore is composed with the needle of the machine than there is whenthere are two rows, thus overcoming in a great degree the tendency to doinjury to the elastic gore during the process of manufacture. The partsare also kept in place to better advantage by being cemented togetherwhile being operated upon by asewing-machine.

A spring, V, )rovided with a series of holes, (Z is secured to the tableand bears against the under side of the lever Q, said lever having astud, 0 to enter either of said holes when moved into contact therewith.This device serves to lock the gages when set to any desired size. Bypressing down the free end of the spring the stud can be disconnectedfrom either of said holes. Each hole may be numbered, as shown, toindicate the size at which the gage M is set when the stud c is ineither of the holes (Z of the spring V.

Having described myinvention, whatIclaim 1s- 1. The combination of thetable A, having thereon the line S, and provided with slots 'm and R,the plate a", secured to its top, and a heater, C, resting against saidplate and arranged in an opening in said bench, the plates K L, havinginclined slots to receive screws or studs secured to the plate of, thegages M, fastened to the said plates KL, and the gages N, pivotedthereto and provided with hooks i, the bails 7c", weights Z, theconnecting-rods O P, lever Q, pivoted to the bench and provided with thestud 0*, spring V, secured to the table and having the series ofgage-holes 6?, all being arranged and to operate substantially as setforth.

2. The combination of the table A, having thereon the line S, andprovided with slots m and R, and having secured to it the plate a, andthe heater C, provided with inlet and outlet pipes and arranged againstsaid plate, as shown, the plates K L, havinginclined guideslots 9*, toreceive screws or studs h, secured to the plate a", the gages M,graduated and numbered, as shown, to indicate with theline S thedifferent sizes and fixed to the plates K L, the gages N, pivotedthereto and having hooks i the bails k, weights Z, connectingrods 0 I,and lever Q, all being arranged and to operate essentially as set forth.

In testimony'whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

CHARLES WILLIAM SHIPPEE.

Witnesses:

MARTIN J. BUoKLEY, JOHN W. CLIFFORD.

